The World of Fast Fashion
The clothing industry, more specifically, the fast fashion industry continues to grow at an exponential rate resulting in detrimental and unsustainable consequences for the environment. Contributing to 10% of worldwide greenhouse gas emissions and as the second-largest consumer of worldwide water supply, fast fashion pollutes more than international flights and maritime shipping combined. This pollution comes in various forms and as a result of different processes. The process of laundry washing for example, is one of the main polluters of microfiber plastic in oceans.
Synthetic Fibres
Explaining microfiber pollution begins with the question as to why garments are made from synthetic materials in the first place. Fast fashion earned its name due to the fast production and consumption chain it developed. Research shows that on average, people bought 60% more garments in 2014 compared to 2000. Brands such as Zara and H&M went from offering 2 collections to 24 per year, made possible due to increased globalization and profit maximization mechanisms. However, the real essence of fast fashion is its appealing price and high item turnover which, among other things, is made possible due to the use of cheap synthetic fibers. To put the latter into perspective, synthetic fibers make up over 65% of all clothing. Synthetic fibers, specifically polyester and nylon, are made out of plastic i.e. fossil fuels (crude oil), and thus are largely non-renewable. It is estimated that around 342 million barrels of oil (54373654865.38 L) are used yearly in the production of said fibers. But, most importantly, the plastic nature of these garments means that they shed quickly but decompose very slowly. Said fibers are responsible for the most emissions in the whole garment value chain due to their fuel-dependent production. Now, this is where the laundry process comes into play.
The Laundry process & Microfiber Release
Microfiber release from the laundry is the leading cause (90%) of plastic in oceans and as a result, microplastic PET (Polyethylene terephthalate) is the most common plastic found in marine animals. An average wash load of 6kg, for example, can release over 700,000 fibers. These fibers make their way from the washing machine to a wastewater treatment plant where some fibers are blocked by the filters and the rest are released into the ocean or rivers. This is due to their small size and elongated figure which is also the reason aquatic animals easily ingest them. The issue lies in wastewater systems as well. Yes, wastewater systems can retain up to 99% of solid particles and concentrate them into sludge for ease of removal; yet these systems focus on holding larger particles, such as microbeads, rather than microfibers.
There are more variables that come into play besides simply washing clothes. For example, washing at higher temperatures and detergent type influences the release of microfibers and dye. Moreover, using washing softener has the largest impact of all, increasing microfiber release by 35%. Finally, high water to fabric ratio, i.e. washing small loads in a large machine, also increases fiber loss.
It is important to remember that the process explained in the latter paragraphs holds a Western-centric bias. In less “developed” countries, there are no wastewater treatment plants, resulting in the majority of the polluted water flowing directly into various streams. This, in addition to the washing process, suggests why 90% of all water surfaces are covered with microplastics of which 91% are microfibers.
Future & and more Positive Technologies
Presenting a more positive outlook on the topic, more recently technologies to combat fiber release have been developed. For example, the “Lint LUV- R” filter system, which can be installed within the washing machine to trap the fibers, was launched in 2020. This technology claims 65% efficiency to capture fibers and even better, it is reusable by simply cleaning the filter every 10 to 15 washes. However, it is generally unclear where fibers can be thrown once the filter is cleaned. Some companies that produce similar filters claim that the filters can be sent back to the manufacturers to be cleaned. However, even though the technology might work relatively efficiently, it is the recycling or sustainable deterioration of the fibers that remain of high importance.
Another more widely known option is “GuppyFriend” washing bags. This product is a fine mesh bag in which clothes are placed for washing to retain shed fibers. Still, it is not very clear how individuals can sustainably dispose of the trapped fibers. Some suppliers suggest placing the fibers in water bottles so that they do not escape, and then recycling them all together. Even though these technologies hold their limitations in completing an all-around sustainable process, they are working on reducing their direct contamination into aquatic environments. Nonetheless, the issue of easy disposal remains and continues to be the leading cause for the lack of implementation.
Conclusion
Overall, the overconsumption of cheap and exploitative garments is creating an unsustainable and unethical chain for both the planet and humans. Laundry alone contributes tremendously to microplastics found in water bodies slowly killing aquatic life. However, we are seeing societal change and awareness towards a greener future. With the simple addition of a filter or bag, individuals can help reduce contamination, which keeps our ecosystem and the world a bit cleaner.
Carlota Voorvaart
Bibliography
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